Transparency, sustainability and knitwear with a conscience: The story of Marle
Image // The Nell Top, courtesy of The Undone , $240
There was a time, not so long ago, where Aussie’s would claim anything from New Zealand as their own, a sort of bullying big brother to our friends across the pond, trying to pass off their talents as our own.
But now the bully has been put in its place as we look to New Zealand for leadership cues, Prime Minister envy, and fashion inspiration alike. Amongst our current fashion loves is Marle, the luxe NZ brand created by husband and wife duo, Juliet and Justin Souter.
With a focus on sustainability and slow fashion they exclusively use natural fabrications and recycled fabrications like cotton and wool. But they’re not just another brand on the eco-bandwagon either. They treat their eco-responsibility seriously, with all suppliers needing to meet standards through their Code of Compliance, their knitwear factory being Gold WRAP certified and OEKO-TEX certified knitwear and silk. Their clothes, and their ethics are not made for the throwaway culture, with timeless shapes and knitwear you know you’ll have forever – which is precisely why we are such devoted fans.
We sat down with Co-Founder, Juliet recently to talk about sustainability, conscious design and the story of Marle.
Juliet Souter, Co-Founder of Marle.
How did the Marle story begin?
I studied fashion design at Auckland University of Technology (AUT) and majored in knitwear for my final year. While none of that final year collection was remotely wearable it cemented my love and appreciation for knitting, be it by machine or by hand… it’s a special skill that I enjoyed exploring. I have always wanted to build an aspirational yet achievable brand where women could experience beautiful natural fibres that were still at an accessible price point. It started with wanting to use exclusively natural materials and once we made that decision, additional business decisions followed.
How did your past experience lead you to this point?
Prior to Marle, I was working as a buyer for a large corporate company in New Zealand when I found out I was pregnant with our first baby. It had always been important to me to have flexibility between parenting and work, so when I had Vita, I wanted to ensure I was there for her whenever she needed me.
My husband Justin and I founded Marle together. He is definitely more of the business and strategy side behind the brand and has a longstanding reputation in fashion wholesale in New Zealand - we wouldn’t be where we are today without him, his constant drive and ability to always predict what’s next. His strong relationships with retailers around the country are how we were able to be picked up by these stores from our very first season. I love working alongside him.
Was there a certain piece that you feel really launched your brand?
I think it was really the knitwear category as a whole, then when the Mimi Jumper launched it helped us gain more brand awareness and trust in the quality of our knitwear. The Mimi Jumper continues to grow in its popularity and has become a core piece for the brand.
You’re vocally passionate about sustainability. what is Marle personally doing within this realm?
I feel that my upbringing in New Zealand played a role as to why I am passionate about reducing my environmental footprint. It was always communicated to us that New Zealand is a clean and green land, so I feel responsible as a designer to reduce impact where possible and show commitment and agility to the ever-changing industry.
As I have furthered my knowledge on the environmental impacts of fashion it became clear to me that there is no such thing as a fully sustainable brand but the choices you make will contribute to a brand that is collectively low impact. I wanted to ensure my personal values and beliefs aligned to my business decisions. I want to make my children proud and do right by them and future generations.
The natural fibres we choose have always led the direction of the design. We are fortunate to have close relationships with a team of suppliers who are both advanced technologically but understand our commitment to sustainable and ethical practices. Our knitwear factory is Gold WRAP certified and we are extremely proud of it and the relationship we have developed with them.
As we continued to evolve as a business, so did our choices as a business. A large focus for me was our packaging. A lot of garments made for brands are shipped in poly bags to protect the garment through international transits. We have always used recyclable bags but wanted to eradicate any single-use or multiple-use plastic from the business. We worked hard on creating our compostable bags, they’re TUV certified and we can proudly say break down within a few weeks – tried and tested by our team here.
“I feel responsible as a designer to reduce impact where possible and show commitment and agility to the ever-changing industry.”
As a consumer, what should we be looking for in a sustainable brand? Are there any claims that raise red flags for you?
I believe that education and awareness are the foundations of positive change. We are proud to make conscious decisions as a business but it’s not something we feel needs to be announced constantly – it’s simply part of who we are.
We have always been realistic about our impact on the environment and while we do our very best to be as sustainable as possible, it’s a journey - and one that is constantly evolving with the advancements of the industry. I am trying to educate our women on the importance of natural fibre; from a wearable perspective but also from an environmental one. Natural fibres biodegrade, so they won’t be left in landfill at the end of their life to take hundreds of years to breakdown. What comes from the Earth, returns to it.
I feel that asking the question and or researching the brands you are purchasing from to see if they are making moves or already have processes in place in the sustainability field is a good place to start when purchasing.
Do you think it’s possible for the entire fashion industry to move to sustainable models?
Yes, I do, but it can't and won't happen overnight. As I mentioned, education is a fundamental part of the process, but at the end of the day the customer dictates what designers create. As consumers become more educated within the realm of sustainability, their shopping trends and choices will dictate how the market moves forward.
It is expensive to be sustainable. For us, designing with natural fibres is the largest part of that expense - there’s no way around this part of our business and it is a challenge when creating fabric/yarn diversity in a collection.
What kind of sustainability standards would you like to see in place within the industry?
I would like to see our industry get tougher on the use of single-use plastics and develop an industry standard. Single-use plastics have a significantly negative impact on our environment and ecosystems and need to be halted in production use.
“It is expensive to be sustainable. For us, designing with natural fibres is the largest part of that expense - there’s no way around this part of our business”
what does it means to be Gold WRAP & OEKO-TEX certified?
WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production) is a widely respected certification company audits factories to their high standards of ethical workplace practises. OEKO-TEX is again an independent certification company that ensures fabric and yarn are being produced in an ethical and environmentally friendly way and are harmless to human health.
How did the global pandemic change or affect your business? Were there any positives that came out of this for you?
While the pandemic has had its pain points, we were overwhelmed with support from our community. We were faced with a level 4 lockdown in New Zealand which meant we were not able to ship for 4 weeks, and while this was tough on the business, it allowed us to connect with our women on a deeper level. It also solidified our knowledge that our community continues to strive for high-quality, low-impact clothing that is designed to last beyond a single season but is also conducive to the season they’re in.
Get to know Juliet…
Four quick questions to get inside the designer’s mind.
The podcasts I have on high rotation are…
The Daily, The High Low, Toure Show, The Last Bohemians, Grounded with Louis Theroux.
2. The last great book I read was…
A Little Life, the most challenging and moving book I have read in a long time.
3. My all-time favourite marle piece is…
The Jo Jumper, I love its simplicity and versatility. The yarn being Merino, Possum and Silk makes it light yet very warm and comfortable. I love to pair this with a silk skirt or pant.
4. The best part of being a New Zealander is…
There are too many things to list but a few that come to mind are the landscape we’re surrounded by every day, the people (kind, humble, hardworking and innovative) and the sheer geography of our location at the bottom of the Earth
Shop the latest marle collection (including their signature knitwear) here or locally at the undone or follow marle on instagRam.
